Travelogue 2019/1, Old and New in Bangkok (Thailand)

Including suggestions for excursions

New Year's Eve

We arrived in Bangkok on New Year's Eve. I thought over here New Year’s Eve would be a non-event like in many Asian countries. What a mistake.

A large part of Siam Square was closed for traffic - and that says something in this car city. Six-lane roads were transformed into pedestrian areas and party locations. The decoration and lighting was impressive: so cheerful and colorful. The amount of people already in the streets at 9 pm was even more overwhelming. Thick masses of people flocked to the plazas with music and show for the countdown, many wearing illuminated headgear. Despite the crowds and noise, the atmosphere was relaxed.

We passed a large temple with the sound of chanting. Rows of people, hundreds, prayed and sang. A group of monks led the chanting. Almost everyone was dressed in white and had a piece of string tied around their head, that came down from a network of strings that had been spun above the whole site. So everyone was connected to each other.

At midnight there were some big fireworks shows.

Walking from park to park

Every dark-gray autumn day, every ice-cold winter day I had been looking forward to this moment, after the night-flights and the long walks through air-conditioned terminals, after the train-ride and the station building: to feel the solid ground and to taste the warm air of Bangkok.

Bangkok is vibrant, lively, colorful and cheerful. But also busy and noisy. That's why it's so nice to discover the quiet, hidden corners.

New Year's Day Lumphini Park was lively but not crowded. There was walking, jogging, cycling and picnics going on. There was a light breeze, just perfect.

We sat down at one of the big ponds. A few crows were fighting over a fish.  When we looked sideways we saw a monitor lizard that was also busy with a large fish. At first the lizard seemed  smallish but it was still one meter long. It had a hard time with the fish. Tore it in half and then swallowed half of it. The fish got stuck and for a long time two tail fins stuck out of the lizard’s mouth. A pretty silly sight. Eventually it managed to swallow it. Then the other half of the fish was eaten, say shredded. It was a bloody scene. Later we saw an even bigger lizard more peacefully sitting in the sun on a bank.

There is an elevated bike path from Lamphini Park to Benchakiti Park, partly above, partly next to a canal. It is a beautiful walkway along the backs of old neighborhoods, far from busy roads. You see wooden houses, small gardens, banana trees. Birds whistling, cats sleeping in the sun. The village was messy, and only the new skyscrapers in the distance reminded you that you were in the big city.

Around Bangkok - The Erawan Museum 

We made two trips to suburbs of Bangkok that are officially located in another province. A big contrast in means of transport. To Samut Prakan we took the brand new, just opened extension of the hypermodern Skytrain. To Samut Songkhram we took a slow train over an ancient narrow gauge single track ...

We took the BTS to Royal Thai Naval Academy and had a look at the small Bang Nang Kreng joining the big Chao Praya river. Then we backtracked with a song thaew to a stop underneath a giant motorway flyover. Just one crossing to the museum.

The Erawan Museum in Samut Prakan is a bizarre collection of kitschy elephant statues and historical Buddha statues in and around a giant three-headed elephant. The elephant reaches 47 meters high and can be seen above everything from a great distance. Around it gardens and ponds and temples and elephant statues. Ínside the elephant is an overabundantly decorated stairwell, where Asian ladies like to be photographed in graceful poses. Upstairs, in the belly of the elephant, is a blue lit room with precious ancient Buddha statues. Very remarkable.

The Mae Klong railway market

Hidden behind a market is a small train station, Wong Wian Yai. It’s the starting point of  a slow train to the southwest. We walked there from the BTS station with the same name. We rode along small houses and the backs of buildings, past banana trees and market stalls. Slowly the urban development became less dense. After an hour, over 30 km, the terminal station was in a large fish market.

From there it was a few minutes walk to the river, that we crossed by ferry.

Then another ten minutes walk to the next train station, where a similar train ride took us to the next river. This strech was more rural, with large fish ponds and salt basins. Here too, the line ended in a market. When a train came in, the goods had to be removed from the tracks and the marquises folded back. This had become a true attraction in recent years, and was visited by thousands of tourists as a tour-bus day trip from Bangkok. So our train was welcomed by a huge crowd that was photographing and waving at us.

You can this as a return trip with careful planning of the train schedule. We stayed the night in Samut Songkhram.

The next morning we watched the scene from the other side. Some stall owners had put their crates of goods on a moving rack, which slid over small rails to make just enough space for the train. Others had stacked their vegetables so low that the train ran overhead the cabbage and mangoes. What struck us was how close the space between the market stalls and the train was. Really just 2a3 cm clearance. And a train is very big when it passes a few centimeters from you ...